Our 1883 wood frame two-story house needs repainting (white). There are several coats of old paint, a lot of peeling and some bare spots. Our climate is mild in the summers, sometimes damp, with cold winters. Any recommendations for durable paint brands will be appreciated!
We just restored our Italianate this summer and our contractor totally swears by Sherwin Williams Durability. Our contractor guarantees his work for at least 20 years. Sherwin Williams says "Paint now; never paint again." (We'll see ... lol) Now, of course, the prep work is the very most important part of a good paint job so keep that in mind.
Good luck with your project!
(My profile picture is a picture of our recently restored home using Sherwin Williams Durability from the Preservation Palette)
I concure. S/W is GREAT paint... We are on the 3rd restoration here in VA and have had great success on all three, The trick is the prep. We strip to bare wood & sand. Then we use oil primer tinted toward the body color. Then 2 top coats. Guaranteed good job.
We had our 1852 two-story wood farmhouse painted in May. The old paint was peeling badly. The painters scraped off the peeling paint, applied oil-based primer on the entire house, then two coats of latex paint. Our house is also white, but it had been a blinding white and I chose to paint it a "dirty" white that is much more appropriate. We also had the trim painted a rusty red (overall, to resemble white wash and red wash). We used MAB Seashore paint, which came highly recommended from a friend with an old house and from our painter. The painters also mixed in a mildewcide. It has only been a few months so I can't speak to the long-term durability, but we have been happy with the results so far. FYI - we are in NC so we have hot summers and milder winters. Good Luck!!
Linda - just a warning - depending on how much red oxide they put in to mix your color you may end up with a problem of too much heat absorbsion on the trim. Red oxide acts just like black and absorbs a high level of heat causing wood to dry out faster. While you may not have too much of a problem with solid wood trim, I can tell you that the "Barn Red" that the previous owner painted our shingle siding is already warping the shingles she replaced in 2002. On the south and west side which get the most weathering on our buildings we have cupping that is close to a 1/4" rise on the shingles. I am planning to rob a bank or win the Lotto to pay for the re-shingle job.
As others have said - prep is 80% of the success. We too, have taken our exterior trim down to bare wood, sanded, done some composite expoxy fill, coated the trim with the expoxy composite, done oil base primer and two coats of oil base paint. I have been using Benjamin Moore - top of the line, like you I will have to wait to see how it holds up.
According to the FTC (Federal Trade Commission), it's essentially a waste of money as any possible insulation value is effectively nil given the very thin paint film. Also, it is generally applied by contractors who likely have very little experience painting.
Technically the paint does not insulate. Supposedly, the micro ceramic beads reflect back hea--no real advantage in the winter--would need to paint interior walls. Normally it is applied in 3 coats-1 primer and 2 paint. Painting techniques take a little getting use to. I was planning on steering away from a company that uses anyone as a painter.
Am looking for anyone who has had more hands on experience or knowledge.
has anyone used the new Benjamin Moore paint-Aura, for exterior wood. It is guaranteed for "life", guaranteed one-coat, and supposed to fill some of those depressions and cracks in the old paint.
I am about to repaint my house, and just finished reading the Dept of Interior instructions on painting history exteriors (this website). It seems a bit conservative. when it comes to stripping. It seems to advise against stripping old paint.
The siding on my huse is redwood teardrop in the sets of three. Much of the front siding is rough with various lawyers of paint over the ages. Several painters I have interviewed want to smooth it all out, either by sanding, torching (not recommended by Dept of Interior), or filling with some sort of filler.
The micro bead ceramic paint spposedly has an insulating factor. We should not have a problem with removing the paint. Vinyl siding was put up over 15 yrs ago--don't k now last paint date, but most paint should come off easily--taking precautionsn for lead paint.
the paint striping is for the interior. I have at least 6 coats of paint on my trim and it is not giving much/ Have used soy gel, peel away 7 and 1 (I thinkK. Tried sanding with an orbital vac sander but all it did was gum up the paper. Also tried the Feine muti tool but did not have the tool handling expertise.. STeam or infra red paint remover may be out next option.
I believe I sent you something on geoexchange dx. Let me know what you thhink and I wll keep you posted on the progress on our home
Thanks again for all you help and good luck with your home
I've been told that Graham's Aqua Borne is about the best paint on the market. I used it to paint the front of our cottage this year. I'm using Sherwin Williams Duration on my house. We'll see how they compare. Though, it's all in the prep. I'm removing all the paint on my house (using a homemade "silent paint stripper") and just scraping and spot priming the cottage. So, the comparison is probably not going to be fair.
BTW, I went with S-W on my house because my only local source for the Graham is going out of business. The owner is retiring and so far hasn't found a buyer. I don't want to be without a source for the paint when I need more.