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Paint removal
Anyone know of a product that will remove latex paint without disturbing the hand grained finish that lies beneath the latex paint? Hand graining was done to doors and woodwork in the 1870's .
Thanks
Views: 249
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Jim Finley on -
that is a tough one - I have only read of museum conservationists doing this successfully with very painstaking techniques. I'm sure there are ways to soften one layer at a time with solvents and remove it without damaging underlying layers but the timing, etc would have to be critical. I have done it occasionally on furniture more by accident than anything else. I have an old German or Norwegian sea chest that has been grain painted over top of an older ornate flower design - I have tried rubbing it lightly with various solvents then carefully scraping it bit by bit but I could never get the outer layer off enough without damaging the flower painting. Good luck - try a library and look at specialty refinishing books.
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Permalink Reply by Bill Hendrickson on -
Look into an infrared paint stripper such as http://www.silentpaintremover.com/
It is supposed to remove the paint without harming the wood. I plan to use this to take paint off of trim that is obviously stained underneath, as I can see it where the paint has chipped off.
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Permalink Reply by Shelley on -
I've given SoyGel accolades through out these forums. Great product-removes paint, encapsulates lead paint, no harsh smell and no need to wear gloves!! Latex paint comes off in ribbons-just need a gentle nudge with a scraper once in awhile! Lead paint needs about a 24 hours covered Soy Gel layer on the wood. I found the original stain colors underneath 4 paint layers on the trim. Gold mine!! At least to me!
If you want to remove the stain then do another application of SoyGel.
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Permalink Reply by Linda Brown on -
Thanks to each of you for your suggestions.
Shelley, do you know if soygel will desolve shellac? I believe that the top finish on the hand graining is shellac and I do not wish to ruin it...
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Permalink Reply by Bill Hendrickson on
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My guess is you will find any chemical removal process will affect the item down to the wood.
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Permalink Reply by Shelley on
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Linda,
I've had good luck with SoyGel dissolving shellac too. Since moving into this old house, I've been stripping off three layers of latex paint followed by stubborn layers of lead paint then getting down to the original shellaced stain! By the time I get there, most of the shellac is dry enough to lightly sand off and original stain color can be seen!! Labor of love I tell you! But working with Soygel is sooo easy-brush it on, cover it with wax paper and leave it for up to 24 hours! Caution tho-has to be put on thick so not to dry out. So there you go!
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Permalink Reply by Nick on
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Removing finsih is not an 'exact' science. Pinpointing where you want the finish to start and stop removing is difficult. Any of the products listed are indiscriminate and will remove anything in their path all the way to the wood if left to do so. I would try one door and go slow. Do not let the stripper sit long and work at removing layer by layer, if possible. I would start using a industrial strength stripper (methyl chloride) I think. Its faster acting than the soy and safe strip and citrus products. And becasue its faster, you can apply it, wait 10 minutes and remove some layers.
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Permalink Reply by Shelley on
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BUT IT STINKS!!! Need a well ventilated area plus a gas mask! That's why I love Soy Gel! It begins to work within 2 hours but if multiple layers, better to leave on longer AND no offensive and lung damaging odors.
Linda,
FYI-if you don't want to ruin the shellac, then don't leave it on for 24 hours.
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Permalink Reply by Lair Tienter on -
I have done this on a table. It was a walnut table with a faux marble top. The materials are the same for marble or wood grain, just a different color and brushes. I took old tee shirts, dipped them in a pail of water that I had added a couple of ounces of Jet Dry. That's the stuff you put in your dish washer to make the water wetter. I draped the damp shirts over the surface and wrapped them around the edges. After a couple of hours I could just peel off the paint like in a paint roller tray. When I got all the latex off I cleaned up the top with denatured alcohol on a cloth followed with a coat of varnish. It is worth a try. Good luck with your project! Lair
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Permalink Reply by Linda Brown on
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Again, thanks to each of you for your suggestions. I was hesitant to use a chemical product assuming that it would also desolve everything down to bare wood. I was hoping that someone had discovered a " homemade" solution that I could try. And, Lair, it looks like you have. As soon as the weather breaks here in Pa I will carry a door outside and try the water treatment. It is good to have such a pool of talented people to call upon for ideas.
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Permalink Reply by Lair Tienter on
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Nothing in the Jet Dry but it is the water. Jet dry just keeps the water from drying out too fast. Water doesn't remove the paint it just makes it soft and flexable to peel off.
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