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the plaster wall as you are walking up to the attic rooms which will be mine !!! are starting to fall wall paper hanging them on lol imma prettty sure glue or plaster nails wont help at this point its really thick plaster too i was thinking of breaking up plaster and drywalling and then wall papering after sealing up that part of near roof and insulateing too.. sounds like a real job has anyone ever conquered this before ????? rember it more like a cement plaster ???!!!!! built in 1910

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When removing old plaster and replacing it with drywall, you want to consider any reveal in the wood trim. Historic coats of plaster are usually much thicker than sheetrock, and you may be left with a very visible line where the old plaster used to be and uneven paint buildup, unless the trim was added after it was plastered.

We had the same problem at our place. In some really, really bad areas we removed the plaster, but kept the lath attached, and sheetrocked over the old lath. This helped keep the plaster walls closer to their original thickness. In other areas, where just the wall paper had failed and there was some cracking from settling, we used welderbond (spelling?) as a glue, and had a new brown and finish coat applied over the old plaster. It added about 1/3 of an inch, but there was much less demo. Once you start ripping stuff out, the "to do" list can get very big, very quickly.

Good luck.

Sean

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thank you sean! in one pic i show on photos is the good room no falling plaster you can see how thick and slanted walls are...well coming up the steps is where the plaster cement wall is falling its about 2 by 2 feeet of plaster! house is by railroad tracks too!!! its literally hanging there by the wallpaper!!lol,, there was water damage too so i imagine that caused this as some pieces of plaster are curved too lol it will be a job ill probably do what you did thanx again

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yes they had tore some wallpaer offf ,,,,,on second visit while inpection was there i was able to see it, it is thin plaster sure didnt look like it 1st visit ....lol ty for replying

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I have some problems like this. Some areas I will have to gut out and use sheetrock (as much as I dont want to) to replace the walls. The hardest part will be the areas where my wall is brick, and the plaster attached has failed. If you coat the entire wall with a skim coat of drywall mud after you put up drywall, it will make the repair much more invisible.Or you can get the master of plaster veneer finish stuff, but it is rather expensive (120 bucks for 5 gallons). I know what it is like to have the wallpaper holding the plaster up lol. Good luck with the project ;)

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