Well Spring is trying to come here in upstate NY and I'm eager to continue on the north side of the house again. I updated some pictures of where I left off last fall.
So my question is, does anyone have any suggestions for where to get shingles? The ones I have seem to measure 6" wide and all I see are ~5" wide. I have two belt courses to put back since they were removed for the evil aluminum install. It won't be a ton of shingles.
Here is a picture of the area.
I'm afraid you stuck with buying many bundles of random-width resawn shingles and re-ripping the wide ones to your 6" width.
We reshingled our two story back porch and addition a while back, perhaps 12 years ago now. To match other shingling on the house, I wanted standard width (might have been 5.25", can't remember) for use on patterned areas, and I have also had to replace standard width shingles elsewhere. Back then, buying them in a uniform width was more expensive than buying random width as Casey suggests and ripping them to that uniform width. The key to money saving is to use white cedar an not red cedar. At least then, red was 3x more expensive.
Thank you for the replies. Any thoughts on where to get the random width shingles? I'm also trying to figure out how to deal with the internal and external seams and how you stop them from leaking.
I got my (and continue as needed) white cedar shingles from my local, non-chain, lumber yard. They are imported from Canada, or were 10 years ago, because I called them about painting. All shingles are 16-18" tall. Mine were installed, I believe, 5" or 6" to the weather (I measured existing to keep them consistent), so each was triple lapped. The key is to install each course staggered to the course below it. Full width shingle to start one row, half the next one up. This way each seam only is one shingle thick, and no seam carries through to your nailing boards. Each is installed with 2 nails above the part that will be exposed, so all nails are hidden by the next course. Your bottom course will need to be face nailed. Use stainless steel nails for those exposed face nails. They recommended stainless for all of them, but that is very expensive, so I switched to galvanized on the upper courses not exposed to the weather. Your bottom starter course is 2 thick, again with staggered seams. You will need to study other similar shingled houses to see if their is more a flair out on the bottom of such belt courses. Also, not sure what you are nailing to, but it needs to breathe. If it is solid plywood or anything solid, then you need to put something in between the solid nailing boards and the shingles or any water that sneaks in will lead to rot and/or paint problems. We used a product called "cedar breather" and have had no paint failure after 12 years. I learned all of this from my father in-law, who is an amazing carpenter and did most of the installation.
One correction, if you use the word shake instead of shingles you will have better key word search results. I have been getting my vertical grain cedar shakes from the Pacific Northwest.