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SW Duration paint
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Permalink Reply by Nick on
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Your article is very informative and obviously based on experience. I live by the credo that simpler is often better. I like hand-scraping and hand-brushing. Most painters powerwash and spray. If you asked around, the concensus would be that powerwashing and spraying is the best, but don't let the majority get in the way of your common sense. Apply paint by hand and when in doubt, use oil primer. 75% of all paint problems could be remedied by those simple things. And another thing--self-priming paint is not a good primer and not a good topcoat. It is all marketing. I have to explain myself to every homeowner on estimates when I tell them that I prime. They believe that priming is antiquated and backwards.
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Permalink Reply by Phil on -
I agree. In my (obviously very tiny, relative to John) experience, surface prep is the main key. I wonder whether color differences and placement create people's biases. I used a medium green, a dark olive green and a red on my most recent paint job (2003). The two greens were both Valspar American Tradition and the red an Olympus (couldn't match the preferred shade of red to the Valspar). The medium green has held up much better than the dark green, even though they are the same brand. The dark green took an extra coat, because of the value difference between the primer and the topcoat. But, the dark shade was used on window sills that are subject to severe sun and water exposure and have held up less well. The red Olympus held up well on the window sashes and under-eaves trim, but it did badly on some sun-exposed porch step finials. Were I to have attributed the difference to brand, rather than exposure and color value, I think that I would have made a mistake.
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Valspar is a great company, but there are better products for exterior painting. Tints change paint. This is obvious if you're trying to paint a deep red, or for that matter, any very deep color. Tint makes pait tacky, it covers less and, I believe, makes a lesser paint. I echo your experience--especially with dark colors with southern exposure. I try to be honest when painting older homes. Whatever was done for the last 100 years affects what I am doing currently. If someone did a poor job painting 30 years ago, theoretically, all of that paint may fail at some point. I advise a maintenance schedule. Simply scrape the loose and seal the wood with new paint yearly (spot touch up). On my 1917 craftsman home I scrape, prime and paint the sills every 2 years. Where I have removed the old paint to the original wood, the paint has adhered nicely. Where there are thick layers of old paint there is failure yearly, but I scrape, prime and paint with good results. The 3 causes of paint failure are sun, water and human error. The soffits of old homes are often pristine and have never had peeling. This is because direct sun and water have never touched them. Homes with large shade trees on their southern and western exposure have longer paint life and those with large southern exposures surrounded by hard surfaces (reflecting heat).
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Permalink Reply by kevin on -
Im not a pro but my nieghbor is and that is the paint he put on his house !! So monkey see monkey do ! it works great, find out thier sale dates, i got 40 % off thats cheaper than the cheap paint. !!
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