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I winced when I saw the closeup of the paintbrush on page 16 of the current issue--the painter had gotten paint into and over the ferrule. A clean ferrule junction supplies the spring in your brush's bristles. If you get paint in there, it's almost impossible to clean out completely--bye,bye responsive brush. If you do accidentally get paint in that area, clean the brush at once before it gets worked in thoroughly. Best practice is to dip the bristles in your paint's solvent (water, mineral spirits) and tap out before starting to paint, then don't dip more than 1/3 into the paint. Flick, don't wipe, the excess off. Painting can be a joy with the right brush and the right technique. Speaking of the right brush, try a pointed round European-style sash brush for painting muntins--super efficient. You can find these and other great brushes at Fine Paints of Europe. They don't pay me to recommend their stuff; I've tried it and I'm a believer.

Tags: brushes, paint, painting, technique

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Since you seem knowledgeable about painting, I have a question. I just purchased a 1953 custom home with plaster walls and cove ceilings. Is it better to use oil enamel or latex on the walls?
Houses built before the mid-70s have oil on the trim, could be oil or latex on the walls. To check, rub vigorously with rubbing alcohol on a rag--if it comes off, it's latex. Check also to make sure no one has gone over the trim with latex--sure hope not! You'll need to prime even if you repaint the trim in oil. If the walls are oil and you want to repaint in oil, I'm not sure that any of the big manufacturers still make matte finish oil. You can get that from Fine Paints of Europe or Farrow and Ball. If you want to switch to water-based (acrylic now) wall paint, you will need to prep and prime the walls. Past OHJ articles and your independent paint merchant can advise. No, I don't trust the big box paint departments.
Actually, to add a bit, your walls/trim are probably/could be lead paint. If so, the lead leaches through just about all paints in time. Check it first before doing any sanding. You can buy acrylic "encapsulating" primer that will lock it in, then paint with water base ....on your walls. Trim probably the same deal. Check for lead though before sanding!!! If there is no lead, Sherwin Williams makes a BONDING primer that does go on top of oil with little prep. I have used it and its a rock! Good stuff. No, I dont work for them! There are water borne paints now that give a similar oil look and are much more user friendly. In the north east we cant get oils anymore (limited).

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