An online community for people who love old houses.
Weatherproofing Balcony Floor?
I know I can't be the only one that's had this issue, so looking for advice on how to fix the problem.
My home has a 2nd floor balcony directly above a 1st floor side porch, similar to the style synonymous with New Orleans. I recently removed vinyl flooring that they had put on the balcony floor above, and after yesterday's downpour I began to see it raining in the porch directly beneath. Is there a way to waterproof the balcony flooring to avoid water intrusion down to the porch?
The roof overhangs the balcony by quite a bit, so the only time this is an issue is in the event of a strong storm where the rain comes from the perfect angle...like yesterday. I'm thinking this has always occured and seems to have done no damage to the porch ceiling in the past 100 years, but I'd like to remedy if at all possible.
My home has a 2nd floor balcony directly above a 1st floor side porch, similar to the style synonymous with New Orleans. I recently removed vinyl flooring that they had put on the balcony floor above, and after yesterday's downpour I began to see it raining in the porch directly beneath. Is there a way to waterproof the balcony flooring to avoid water intrusion down to the porch?
The roof overhangs the balcony by quite a bit, so the only time this is an issue is in the event of a strong storm where the rain comes from the perfect angle...like yesterday. I'm thinking this has always occured and seems to have done no damage to the porch ceiling in the past 100 years, but I'd like to remedy if at all possible.
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by John Leeke on -
John:
Traditionally this was done by laying canvas, sealed down with paint and then top coated with paint, much like they do on boat decks. We have done this in recent years using acrylic adhesives and topcoats. Back in May, 1987 I wrote up an article about it, Canvasing a Porch Deck, for Old-House Journal, you might look that one up. I don't know if it's posted online. That was with oil-based paints, now we use the acrylics.
John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
-
Permalink Reply by Michael Rouchell on -
If the balcony decking is T & G boards, you can apply a layer of 1/4 inch thick plywood underlayment and then apply a waterproof traffic coating such as Elasta-Tex 500 by Dex-o-Tex. You would also need to apply metal flashing at the balcony edge and turn the coating up the back sides of the wall about 4 inches. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and standard application details, particularly the flashing detail. The edge of the metal flashing needs to be either fully adhered or taped down to the underlayment so that it doesn't tear through the coating.
Michael
-
Permalink Reply by Randall Marder on -
I would not put two layers of wood sandwiched together. Keep it simple, less to maintain. John's suggestion is the direction I would go.
-
Permalink Reply by John Leeke on
-
If the existing boards are in good condition and fairly flat and even I would still use cotton canvas rather than plywood because the canvas is more "sustainable" than plywood. The Dex-O-Tex Elastatex 500 elastomeric acrylic coating seems similar to the Acrymax brand products I have used, but I would test it before using it with the canvas method to assure it acts as a good adhesive as well as a good top-coating. The old OHJ article has methods and details for handling the outer edge of the deck and joints with walls, etc.
John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
-
Permalink Reply by John Rodgers on -
would an elastomeric paint work to stop the paint intrusion while still allowing the original wide plank boards to be visible? The boards are in good condition and I'd hate to cover them up once again unless its absolutely necessary
-
Permalink Reply by John Leeke on
-
The problem is at the joints between the boards, especially if they are wide, the boards expand and shrink causing the joints to open and close. This could stress any coating or skin of canvas and elastomeric right at the joints, possibly causing failure right where water resistance is needed.
Is it possible that just the boards is all that was ever there? Maybe it gets wet and then dries out. What is the historic evidence? Get out your magnifying glass and knee pads. Any remnants of materials in the joints (such as sisal or cotton caulking); or around the perimeter of the deck (such as paint, sheet materials, nail or tack holes that may have been holding down sheet materials such as canvas, etc)?
It's possible that the occupants simply "took care," perhaps laying a painted "oil cloth" or "rugoleum" on the deck, arranging it to shed most of the water, keeping track of it season by season, year after year. With this the boards expand and shrink the joints come and go, underneath. This is the old fashioned way, doncha know. Folks "took care" to see their home was kept up. Every spring and fall, take up the oil cloth, scrub the floor underneath, let it dry out during the driest month of the year, then lay the oil cloth back down.
This whole modern notion that there is a building product, like an elastomeric, to solve every building problem permanently is entirely mistaken, or should I say, a rouse promoted by the building products industry. Maybe the answer is "taking care" and what product you use is nearly irrelevant, it's the taking care that gives what's needed.
You say, I recently removed vinyl flooring that they had put on the balcony floor above, and after yesterday's downpour I began to see it raining in the porch directly beneath.
See here? You're on the right track, taking care, noticing what is going on. Did the vinyl cause any problems, such as trapping moisture in the boards, starting them to decay? If everything of the deck itself is in good condition, maybe the vinyl flooring was working. If you still have it and its in good shape you could simply put it back down, and check underneath it once a year. If it's worn out and garbage I would not buy more vinyl (the stuff is nasty, see the movie "Blue Vinyl"), I would buy or make an oil cloth, out of canvas and paint, and check it out once or twice a year.
John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
-
Permalink Reply by John Rodgers on
-
the boards appear to be tongue and groove (either cypress or long leaf pine, I think they have similar grain and can't tell the difference), and are in excellent condition...no soft spots, no cracks, no dark areas. Both the balcony and the porch underneath were built at a slight angle to allow water to roll away from the house and drain off the side, which I would imagine always worked except when the rain came from the other day's awkward angle. The most significant area downstairs that was leaking water was along the last foot of ceiling closest to the end of the porch, which would make sense--water was thrown against the house and followed the angle of the build away from the building, causing the rain to collect near the edge as it tried to fight the wind to roll off the edge.
There is no evidence of nail holes along the boards, and they were painted at one time a light grey color, which led me to believe that they would have been exposed. I know on the New Orleans balconies I have visited they are rarely covered, but typically these instances have a sidewalk underneath, not another usable entertaining area.
I agree with you on the comments regarding modern building materials--the downstairs porch is a perfect example. It was always somewhat spongy, so when I started to tear out that's the first thing I tore into to explore. What was underneath the linoleum? two layers of 1/2" plywood that was completely destroyed by termites, turned to dust when touched and only left the nails--apparently the linoleum had been holding it together all these years. The positive was that underneath the two layers of destroyed plywood were the original deck boards, in perfect condition...the only flaw on the boards were the spots where paint was scraped off by yours truly in getting the plywood dust out of the way.
-
Permalink Reply by John Leeke on
-
See? There is a lot to be said for traditional materials and little to be said for modern materials.
I'm not saying plywood is "bad", but it is important to recognize where and when NOT to use it.
--John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
-
Permalink Reply by George Stralkus on
-
John,
I have the 1987 issue and have studied it over and over. I'm doing a sleeping porch and am interested in knowing which of the Acrymax products do you find suitable for the laying of the canvas. Also, would you still use a porch and deck enamal for the top coat?
Thanks,
George
-
Permalink Reply by John Leeke on
-
The specific product for laying the canvas depends on the material and condition of the deck surface. What have you got there?
The Acrymax products are the top coats. Nothing is on top of them.
John
www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
-
Permalink Reply by George Stralkus on
-
I've got t&G fir. Except for a 3x3 area which needs replacing (which I'll re-do with the same material), it's relatively in solid condition. Thanks
-
Permalink Reply by George Stralkus on
-
John,
Am I to understand correctly that nothing is needed to attach the canvas to the floor decking, except coating the TOP layer with an Acrymax product? Which product would you recommend using?
THanks,
George
© 2010 Brought to you by Old-House Online
Old Houses | Restoration Products | Report an Issue | Terms of Service
