fisnished stripping door #1 looks like pine, but is harder?
Pine. Better wood in those days. Plus, I bet there was still some sap in the wood that hardened with time. My 1928 house, I had to drill the rafters they were so hard. A 10 penny nail would just bend.
Nice look. Do you plan to stain?
Ah ha, pine it is, was skeptical as I stripped many doors in my Victorian and had to be so careful not to gouge them as they were soft, but this wood seems much harder, good thing for me.The picture shows it with the stain, I used a light coat of dark walnut, which matches the doors that were not painted and interestingly enough not finished after they were stained, house is between 1900 and 1920. Am trying
Rustoleum ultimate matte poly, was the only one that said no sanding between coats and is soap and water clean up with a 2 hour dry time. I swore when I moved into this house I wasn't going to do the woodwork and now I am. The woodwork that has shellac under the paint is really easy to strip, just get it warm with the heat gun leave it sit a minute and it peels off if I lift a small flap with a scraper, then using my fingers it peels off in strips, good size ones, sometimes 3-6 square inches at the time. The woodwork in the utilitarian areas has calcimine under the paint so its a bit more work removing the paint. My old house I had to practically torch it off with the heat gun and then using a scraper that constantly built up with gunk. There was alot more paint there, was an older home. Thanks for the reply.
Have you looked at the infrared strippers? They are a bit pricey, but at lot less messy.
I had to google that, have one in the third picture, not sure if it is infra-red, but works like them used it on the clapboard of th exterior of the victorian, first pic is the closet door up where it belongs., second pic is the door near it, goes to a bedroom, both are off the hallway, The videos I looked at on you tube with the infra red, basically said that method doesn't let the bad fumes in the air, but it appeared the same method as using the heat plate I had as long as you don't catch anything on fire, which I never had, except when I was using paint stripper with steel wool next to an electrical outlet and that sparked and I had flames and a very close fire extinguisher, thank you Lord.
missed the next door here it is
The deference is there is little to no fumes, or fire. Very little chance of damage to the wood. It breaks the bond between the paint and the wood.
Thanks will have to check that further!
if you want to avoid damaging your woodwork (patina, etc.) never use these products or techniques, if you want to obtain the original tone: never use water base strippers, or rinse with water, never tank strip. never use heat guns or infrared products. Never use a power sander, etc. The art of restoration is becoming a lost art. I have read recommendation on this site from so call experts who are recommending techniques that will eventually damage your historical homes, I know it is confusing. Wood is the flesh of the tree, similar to your skin. How would you treat your dry skin, with water, heat, etc. It is really just common sense.
No disrespect, but we moved from clay tablets to paper and now almost paperless. Just because its new does not mean one has to do it the same way they did it in 1700. Even then, whatever they used was probably new technology and folks bemoaned the new ways.
I agree, burning wood is not a good idea when stripping. I have done this and regret the process and would not recommend it. But, there is always more than one way to get the job done appropriately.
If you are burning the wood when heat-stripping "ur doin' it wrong".
An expert can apply the right technology with the proper technique at the right time to get the right result.